Puerto Viejo travel guide
Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica: where to stay, eat and play
A popular surf and backpacker town on the southern Caribbean coast, with a relaxed Caribbean vibe, beautiful beaches, wildlife and the liveliest nightlife on this side of the country.
By Sarah & Thomas, calling Costa Rica home since 2016
Best Time
Late Jul to Oct
From San José
About 4 to 4.5 hours
Best Airport
SJO
Getting around
Bike or on foot
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Our take
Who Puerto Viejo is for
Puerto Viejo is a popular backpacker town with a relaxed feel. It has that Caribbean vibe, beautiful beaches, great surfing and a fun nightlife scene, so it’s perfect for surfers, backpackers and anyone who wants to party a little.
One thing to keep in mind: There are two towns called Puerto Viejo in Costa Rica. This guide is about Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, on the Caribbean coast near the Panama border.
Make it a base: Stay a few nights and beach-hop south to Cocles, Punta Uva and Manzanillo, visit Cahuita National Park, or keep going to Bocas del Toro in Panama.
Puerto Viejo or Cahuita?
Choose Puerto Viejo if…
You’re interested in nightlife and surfing, and you want more restaurants, bars and shops within walking distance.
Choose Cahuita if…
You want a more relaxed vibe and easy access to Cahuita National Park, one of our favorite parks in the country.
Can’t decide?
They’re close together, so stay in one and visit the other for the day.
Getting there
How to get to Puerto Viejo
Driving from San José
The drive is not too bad for first-time Costa Rica drivers. Getting out of San José can be a bit stressful, and the road through Braulio Carrillo National Park is really pretty but curvy, with road work that can cause backups.
Once you reach the coast, the drive is beautiful and the roads are in good condition. You don’t need a 4×4, but a car with some power helps in the mountains.
For more info:
Rental car
Adobe gives our readers 10% off, and they have an office right in Puerto Viejo if you only want a car for a day trip.
Bus and shuttles
The Mepe bus from San José takes about 4.5 hours and costs about $12, with one stop in Limón (no bathroom on board). For shared shuttles, use Bookaway with code SARAHMC5 for 5% off.
Where it is
Puerto Viejo de Talamanca is on the southern Caribbean coast, south of Cahuita and close to the Panama border.
Good to know: If you only plan to stay in Puerto Viejo, or you’re heading on to Panama, the bus or a shuttle is easiest. Rent a car if you want lots of day trips.
Weather
Puerto Viejo weather and best time to visit
Temperature and rain by month
Swipe to see all months →
Average daytime highs and rainfall in Puerto Viejo. Bars show relative rainfall. Sunrise and sunset are for the 15th of each month.
Driest months
The Caribbean has its own weather. The best weather is usually from late July to October, and August almost completely dries up.
Rainy months
Mid-December through July tends to be wetter, but it’s unpredictable. Rain usually falls at night, and daytime storms aren’t that common. We’ve visited in January and had amazing weather, and also total washout days.
Best time
Late Jul to Oct
Sunrise / Sunset
about 5:30 AM / about 5:30 PM
Rainiest month
Usually July
Our tip
Our tip: When the Pacific side is rainy (September and October), the Caribbean is often at its best. It stays warm even when it rains.
Where to stay
Where to stay in Puerto Viejo
Umami Hotel
Adults-only · Pool · Great staff
Not too large, with excellent staff, a pool and a restaurant, about a third of a mile (600 meters) from the beach. It just has all-around good vibes.
La Tica y la Gata
Mid-range · Modern rooms · Pool
Simple but modern rooms with a pool, just south of downtown.
Also worth considering: Relax Natural Village (adults-only, high-end rustic bungalows), Sueño Grande B&B (cute, downtown, pool and breakfast), Lodge Casa Moabi (budget, south of town near the beach) and Vista Verde (budget private rooms with a shared kitchen).
See our 12 best hotels in Puerto Viejo →
Our pick
Rent a house or villa
Puerto Viejo has great vacation rentals, from beach bungalows to big group houses. Check the cancellation policy before you book.
A few we like: the Secluded Villa with Pool (3 bedrooms, beach access, and the owners went above and beyond), the Caribbean Beach House (sleeps 13, easy beach access), Casa Caracola (budget, near Playa Negra) and Tinoski Lodge (sleeps 10, great for groups).
For more options, we suggest VRBO. Browse Puerto Viejo rentals on VRBO →
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Things to do
Things to do in Puerto Viejo
Beaches
Beach hop south
Some of the prettiest beaches on the Caribbean coast are just south of town, including Cocles, Punta Uva and Manzanillo. Rent a bike and make a day of it.
Good to know
Beach vendors sell handmade jewelry and crafts, usually in the evenings.
Wildlife
Jaguar Rescue Center
A rehabilitation center for abandoned and injured animals, where you can get close to sloths, monkeys, wild cats and more.
Good to know
Visits are by guided tour, so book ahead.
Go surfing
There are lots of surf schools, and board rentals for experienced surfers. Ask your hotel if they partner with a school for a discount.
Cacao tour
Learn how chocolate is made, from planting to eating, and sample plenty along the way.
Hike in Manzanillo
A small coastal village near the Panama border with protected land, hiking trails and coastal views. Go on your own or with a small guided tour to spot wildlife.
Cahuita National Park
Just north of Puerto Viejo, through the Puerto Vargas entrance. One of our favorite national parks in the country.
Nightlife and salsa
Puerto Viejo is the perfect party town for late-night bar hopping. Our favorites are Salsa Brava, The Lazy Mon, Johnny’s Place and Koki Beach. You can even take a salsa or bachata class.
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Where to eat
Where to eat in Puerto Viejo
Café Rico
Breakfast · Café · Cozy
The vibe here is my fave. It’s sooo cute, and I love all the books they have around the place.
KOKI Beach Restaurant
Pricier · Great atmosphere · Drinks
A bit higher in price, but with a great atmosphere. Perfect for early evening drinks.
La Nena
Costa Rican · $ · Cocles
In nearby Cocles. Affordable typical food that tastes great.
De Gustibus Bakery
Bakery · Coffee & cake
Great for breakfast or afternoon coffee and cake. Everything they make is amazing!
Practical stuff
Good to know before you go
Good to know
Packing for Puerto Viejo
Sun protection
The UV index is high this far south, so wear all the sun protection.
Clothes
Very relaxed, mostly beachwear. Bring something a little nicer for fancy dinners and nights out.
Luggage
Save some space for souvenir shopping.
Travel insurance
Always a good idea. It’s not just for injury, but for theft, trip interruptions, and lost luggage. We use Heymondo.
Good to know
Safety
Use the same common sense as anywhere and keep an eye on your belongings, especially at night and on the beach.
Getting around
Getting around Puerto Viejo
Downtown is small and easy to explore on foot. For the beaches and villages nearby, rent a bike, take a taxi or rent a car for the day.
Rental car
Best for day trips to Cahuita, Manzanillo and beyond. Adobe has an office in Puerto Viejo, and our readers get 10% off.
Bikes
Renting a bike is one of the best ways to get around and beach-hop south toward Cocles and Punta Uva.
FAQ
Puerto Viejo FAQ: your questions
Is Puerto Viejo worth visiting?
Yes. It’s a relaxed Caribbean beach town with beautiful beaches, great surfing, wildlife nearby and a fun nightlife scene.
Puerto Viejo or Cahuita: which is better?
If you’re interested in nightlife and surfing, head to Puerto Viejo. If you want a more relaxed vibe and easy access to Cahuita National Park, choose Cahuita.
How do I get from San José to Puerto Viejo?
Drive about 4 to 4.5 hours through Braulio Carrillo National Park and down the coast, take the Mepe bus (about 4.5 hours, around $12), or book a shuttle.
When is the best time to visit Puerto Viejo?
The best weather is usually from late July to October. Mid-December through July tends to be wetter, but rain usually falls at night.
Do I need a car in Puerto Viejo?
Not really. Downtown is walkable and bikes are great for the nearby beaches. Rent a car for day trips; Adobe has an office in town.
Is Puerto Viejo safe?
Use common sense and keep an eye on your belongings, especially at night. Read our Puerto Viejo safety tips for more.
Which Puerto Viejo is the beach town?
Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, on the Caribbean coast near Panama. Don’t confuse it with Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí, inland in the north.
Can you get to Bocas del Toro from Puerto Viejo?
Yes. The border at Sixaola is about 45 minutes away by bus, then you take a taxi and a boat to the islands. A shuttle like Caribe Shuttle makes it much easier.
Every guide
All our Puerto Viejo guides
Keep exploring
More towns in Caribbean Coast
Planning more of the region? See our full Caribbean Coast guide.
Hi Sarah (and Thomas)! I will be traveling for about a week in CR in about two weeks. What would be your biggest recommendation of where to be for a Saturday? My friend and I will be staying in PV all week, but can’t decide if we head back to SJ for an extra day that Saturday, or remain in PV instead and head back Sunday before our flight home. We were also trying to decide if a adventure connection (water rafting) from PV to SJ would be worth the money – it seems like a lot of fun and takes one less bus ride away!
Hi Chelsea! I really like those rafting connection trips. I definitely suggest doing that. Also, San Jose is ok to see, but Puerto Viejo is far more fun to be on a Saturday. Let me know if you have more questions!