Bocas del Toro travel guide
Bocas del Toro, Costa Rica: where to stay, eat and play
A tropical paradise of small islands just over the border in Panama, with crystal clear water full of starfish, over-water bars, beaches and rainforest.
By Sarah & Thomas, calling Costa Rica home since 2016
Best Time
Jan to May, Sep to Oct
Currency
US dollars
Best Airport
SJO
Getting around
Water taxis
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Our take
Who Bocas del Toro is for
Bocas del Toro is known for its vibrant culture, stunning beaches, lush rainforest and great surfing, and the water is crystal clear and full of starfish. There’s definitely a backpacker vibe, but you can find something for everyone. We love this unique corner of Panama.
One thing to keep in mind: It’s in Panama, so you’ll cross the border at Sixaola with your passport. They use US dollars, and ATMs are only in Bocas Town.
How long to stay: At least four nights. There’s so much to do, and if you make the long journey, you should enjoy it!
Getting there
How to get to Bocas del Toro
From Puerto Viejo or Cahuita
This is how most people come. It’s about 45 minutes to the border at Sixaola. You cross on foot, take a taxi to Almirante and then a water taxi (about 30 to 45 minutes) to Isla Colón.
From San José
A door-to-door shuttle like Caribe Shuttle is the easiest option. It takes so much stress out of the border crossing, and lunch is included. The public Mepe bus is the cheapest, about six hours to the border with one stop, but then you do the crossing, taxi and boat on your own, so it’s a long day.
The border crossing
This is the part most people worry about, and it can be a bit of a pain. You pay a small Costa Rica exit tax, get stamped out, walk across the bridge and get stamped into Panama, where they may ask for proof of onward travel. Go early, bring your passport, some US dollars and your onward ticket, and give yourself plenty of time. Our Costa Rica to Panama border crossing guide walks you through every step.
Backpacking through Central America? Bocas is a great stop between Costa Rica and Panama City, and lots of travelers cross here on the way south or north.
For more info:
Driving
You can’t take a Costa Rican rental car into Panama, so drop it off before the border. Adobe has an office in Puerto Viejo.
Flights
Fly into Panama City and connect to Bocas Airport, near Bocas Town. Connections are often poor (we found about 20 hours from Miami and Boston), and you have to transfer between Panama City’s airports.
Shuttles
Caribe Shuttle and other border shuttles can be booked through Bookaway. Use code SARAHMC5 for 5% off.
Where it is
Bocas del Toro is a group of islands on Panama’s Caribbean coast, just over the border from Costa Rica. Isla Colón is the main island, with Bocas Town and the airport.
Good to know: Bring US dollars. ATMs are only in Bocas Town.
Weather
Bocas del Toro weather and best time to visit
Temperature and rain by month
Swipe to see all months →
Average daytime highs and rainfall in Bocas del Toro. Bars show relative rainfall. Sunrise and sunset are for the 15th of each month.
Best months
January to May and September to October. In April it was really hot, sunny and dry, and in September a bit cooler but still sunny and hot.
Rainy months
When we visited in July it rained heavily almost every night, but we usually had good weather during the day.
Best time
Jan to May, Sep to Oct
Sunrise / Sunset
about 5:30 AM / about 5:30 PM
The sun
Crazy strong
Where to stay
Where to stay in Bocas del Toro
Which island should you stay on?
Isla Colón
Main island · Bocas Town · Nightlife
The main hub, with restaurants, shops, tour companies and hotels, and the only island with cars. We recommend spending a night or two here.
Isla Carenero
Quiet · Cheap water taxis
A few hotels and beach bars, mostly locals. We stayed here once and liked it. You can walk to a few restaurants, and it’s only about $5 by boat to Bocas Town.
Isla Bastimentos
Red Frog Beach · Relaxed
Stay at Red Frog or Wizard Beach for relaxed hotels and a few good restaurants. Nice if you want to stay put, but the boat to town is about $8 per person.
Isla Solarte
Quiet · Snorkeling · Hostels
A small, quiet island just across from Bocas Town, with some of the best snorkeling around, a few lodges like Bambuda and a short boat ride to town.
La Loma Jungle Lodge
High-end · All-inclusive · Chocolate farm
A really unique jungle lodge with a chocolate farm attached. It’s all-inclusive.
Eclypse de Mar Aqua Lodge
Overwater bungalows · Luxury
Stay in one of the overwater bungalows for a real luxury experience.
Saigon Bay B&B
Mid-range · Bocas Town · Lovely staff
So cute, in Bocas Town but not right downtown, and the people working here are excellent.
Bambuda Lodge
Budget · Pool · Waterslide
A super nice hostel on Isla Solarte with a pool and a waterslide into the ocean.
Also worth considering: Villa F&B (modern ocean-view rooms on Isla Solarte, pool and restaurant), Bocas Condos (simple apartments downtown with a kitchen and A/C) and Spanish by the Sea (budget, garden and hammocks, a block from the water).
See our 12 best hotels in Bocas del Toro →
Our pick
Rent a house
We love renting a home for more privacy and the flexibility to cook. There are no big resorts here, just smaller, boutique-style places.
A few we like: Casa de K Beach House (5 bedrooms, sleeps 10), Coral View House (rustic but perfect over-water home, 8 minutes by boat to town) and Manta Raya (2 bedrooms, with an amazing pier, hammocks and kayaks).
For more options, we suggest VRBO. Browse Bocas del Toro rentals on VRBO →
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Things to do
Things to do in Bocas del Toro
Our favorite
Take a day tour
The highlight of any trip to Bocas. Our favorite goes to Dolphin Bay, Zapatilla Island and Sloth Island, with a stop for snorkeling.
Good to know
Lots of shops in Bocas Town run tours, but ask your hotel too. They sometimes partner with local companies for a discount.
Day drinking
Over-water bar hopping
I’ve never enjoyed bar hopping as much as in Bocas. Make your own tour with Aqua Lounge, Bibi’s on the Beach, Bocas Brewery and The Blue Coconut, our absolute favorite.
Good to know
Wear your bathing suit! Most places have big docks for swimming and snorkeling, and The Floating Bar is literally a bar in the middle of the water.
Kayak with starfish
The water around Isla Colón is calm and so clear you can see huge starfish. We rented kayaks from our hotel for about $10 for a few hours.
Go snorkeling
Just jump in and swim around to see starfish and amazing fish. Isla Solarte has some of the best snorkeling spots.
Beach days
Zapatilla is always the best for white sand. Red Frog Beach on Bastimentos and Starfish Beach are great hangouts too.
Learn how chocolate is made
Cacao · Bastimentos
Bocas has a long cacao history, and a farm tour is a fun way to see how chocolate goes from tree to bar (with plenty of tasting). La Loma Jungle Lodge has its own chocolate farm.
Explore the bat caves
Nivida Cave · Bastimentos
A guided boat and jungle trip to Nivida Bat Cave on Isla Bastimentos, where you wade through the cave with a headlamp. A fun, slightly wild half day.
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Where to eat
Where to eat in Bocas del Toro
Arboloco
Caribbean · Garden setting
Amazing Caribbean food in an eclectic garden setting. The food is insanely good, so try the mixed grill platter.
The Hummingbird
Bluff Beach · Steak & fish
At the Hummingbird Hotel on Bluff Beach, with delicious steak, chicken and fresh fish.
The View at Oasis
Bluff Beach · Fresh daily menu
Tables on the porch or right on the beach, with a menu that changes daily. I always get the fresh fish, and it’s always excellent.
Bibi’s on the Beach
Over-water · Isla Carenero
A restaurant first and a bar second, on a big over-water dock. Great food and awesome drink specials.
The Bluff Beach restaurants make a great stop on an e-bike day, and the over-water bars serve food too.
Practical stuff
Good to know before you go
Good to know
Packing for Bocas del Toro
Flip flops
I don’t think I’ve ever worn anything on my feet here besides flip flops.
Swim gear
Bathing suits and swim gear will be your best friend.
Passport
You’re crossing into Panama, so don’t forget your passport.
Travel insurance
Always a good idea. It’s not just for injury, but for theft, trip interruptions, and lost luggage. We use Heymondo.
Good to know
Safety
We’ve never had a problem, but petty theft does sometimes happen, especially in Bocas Town. Keep an eye on your things.
Getting around
Getting around Bocas del Toro
Walk around Bocas Town, and use water taxis to hop between islands.
Water taxis
It’s cheap and easy, at about $5 from Isla Carenero to Bocas Town, or about $8 per person from Red Frog Beach, which adds up fast.
E-bikes
On Isla Colón, rent an e-bike from Bocas Bikes to explore beyond town.
FAQ
Bocas del Toro FAQ: your questions
Is Bocas del Toro worth visiting?
Yes. It’s a unique corner of Panama with crystal clear water, starfish, over-water bars, beautiful beaches and something for everyone.
How many days do you need in Bocas del Toro?
We suggest at least four nights. There’s so much to do, and the journey there is long.
How do you get to Bocas del Toro from Costa Rica?
Cross the border at Sixaola (about 45 minutes from Puerto Viejo or Cahuita), take a taxi to the boat and ride about 45 minutes to the islands. A shuttle like Caribe Shuttle makes it much easier, especially from San José.
Do I need a passport for Bocas del Toro?
Yes. Bocas del Toro is in Panama, so you’ll cross an international border.
What currency is used in Bocas del Toro?
US dollars. ATMs are only in Bocas Town, so bring cash.
When is the best time to visit Bocas del Toro?
January to May and September to October. July can bring heavy rain at night.
Which island should I stay on in Bocas del Toro?
Isla Colón (Bocas Town) is the main hub and great for a night or two. Isla Carenero is quieter and close to town, and Red Frog Beach on Bastimentos is nice if you want to stay put.
Is Bocas del Toro safe?
We’ve never had a problem, but petty theft does sometimes happen, especially in Bocas Town.
Every guide
All our Bocas del Toro guides
Keep exploring
More towns in Caribbean Coast
Planning more of the region? See our full Caribbean Coast guide.
